Petitioner Alleges “Cultural Misappropriation” and Seeks Compensation, Apology for Artisan Community
The Bombay High Court has been approached through a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) seeking judicial intervention against the alleged unauthorised commercial use and cultural misappropriation of the Geographical Indication (GI)-tagged Kolhapuri Chappals by the Italian luxury fashion brand, Prada. The plea asserts that the artisan community's rights under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999 have been disregarded by the fashion house in its recently unveiled collection.
The PIL, instituted on July 2, 2025, by Intellectual Property Rights advocate Ganesh S. Hingmire, concerns Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 Men's Collection showcased at Milan on June 22, 2025. The collection reportedly included 'toe ring sandals' bearing a striking resemblance, stylistically and culturally, to Kolhapuri Chappals, a traditional handmade footwear form native to Maharashtra. The Kolhapuri Chappal has been accorded GI protection under the 1999 Act, conferring legal recognition of its regional origin and traditional craftsmanship.
According to the petition, Prada’s sandals, priced at over ₹1 lakh per pair, amount to a rebranding of the traditional Indian product under a foreign label without crediting its rightful source or custodians.
The petition contends that Prada's conduct amounts to "misrepresentation, cultural misappropriation, unauthorised commercialisation" of a GI-tagged product. It is submitted that during the international fashion event, "its genuine origin, traditional custodianship and Geographical Indication (GI) status were entirely overlooked." The petition underscores that this act has caused economic and cultural harm to the artisans and communities traditionally engaged in the production of Kolhapuri Chappals.
While Prada has reportedly issued a private statement acknowledging that the collection was "inspired by Indian artisans," the petitioner argues that the acknowledgment was issued neither publicly nor to any relevant statutory authority or stakeholders, including the artisans, the GI Registry, or the Government of India. Further, it is alleged that no formal apology, compensation, or remedial measure has been extended to the affected artisan community.
The PIL also seeks issuance of directions to governmental authorities to strengthen enforcement of GI protections and develop robust policy mechanisms to prevent international commercial exploitation of traditional Indian designs.
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